The street in Kowloon closes to traffic and stall holders start setting up around 5pm but the place really comes to life after dark. Everything from clothing and souvenirs to watches and electronics is on sale: just remember to bargain. Other attractions include fortune-tellers and Cantonese opera singers.
Tin Hau Temple Gives Name to the Temple Street Night Market
Temple Street and the market begin at the junction of Jordan Road and go up to Kansu Street, around a multi-storey carpark, across in front of the Tin Hau temple and on up to Man Ming Lane and the Yau Ma Tei MTR. The street is named after the temple, dedicated to Tin Hau, the Goddess of Seafarers, which was constructed in about 1800 facing the sea. Reclamation in the 1860s and the development of the town of Yau Ma Tei (meaning oil sesame ground) in 1876 caused the temple to be enlarged and moved well inland to a prominent position overlooking a square.
With all the fisherfolk anchored in the bay, the town of Yau Ma Tei expanded to meet their needs. Soap and bean curd were manufactured here in the 1870s and there was a match factory for a short while. Temple Street specialised in shops for important traditional rites such as coffin shops and joss paper shops. This was the street to go to for the elaborately decorated sedan chairs used in wedding and funeral processions.
The Public Square is also called Yung Shue Tau, meaning ‘At the Banyan Trees’, and these ancient trees shade the square in front of the temple. In the old days merchants met to discuss business and there was a school here for many years. The square has always been a place for recreation and remains so today as children run around, and men gather to play Chinese chess or cards or sit reading the newspapers.
Bargains Galore in Clothing, Mobile Phones, Shoes, Handbags, DVDs in the Night Market
Crowds throng Temple Street market as evening approaches, so keep an eye on your purse. Colourful flags fly above the hundreds of stalls which spill over with clothing, including cheongsams, tee shirts, mobile phones, watches, shoes, handbags, electrical goods, DVDs, Chinese curios, the list goes on. Chinese and western music blares out adding to the atmosphere, while the crowds saunter up and down, greeted by friendly stall holders.
Fortune Tellers and Cantonese Opera, Even Anita Mui Sang There
At the side of the square, fortune tellers sit in a row of booths and wait for customers who want to know what the future holds. Next to them traditional Cantonese opera performances are held every night, except Wednesdays when there is horse-racing in Hong Kong, from around 8.30pm to 11pm. Temple Street market is unique in having these opera performances and even the late Cantopop star Anita Mui is rumoured to have sung on a stage here.
The night market is also famous for its tempting snacks and local delicacies. There are several dai pai dongs or open-air dining places along the route with a large one at the end by Man Ming Lane, where the popular dish is hot pot. A satisfying end to a night’s inexpensive enjoyment.
Temple Street, running from Jordan Road to Man Ming Lane in Yau Ma Tei. Open 5pm – midnight. Nearest MTR station: Jordan, exit A. Or Yau Ma Tei MTR. Tin Hau Temple open 8am – 5pm daily.
Valery Garrett - I was born in England but I’ve lived in Hong Kong for over thirty years. At first I worked as a fashion designer for some large ...
